The Johnstontron RSS

I live in Manhattan.
I like to eat.

Email me: johnstontron [at] gmail.com

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Aug
16th
Sun
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Review: Nana? More like No-No.

Last night Matt and I were hitting up a co-worker’s housewarming party in Park Slope. We were going to go to Brooklyn Fish Camp for some yummy lobster rolls, but the wait was too long and I was worried we’d show up to the party too late. Instead, we headed to Nana, a pan-Asian eatery a block away from the party.

From the start, it looked promising. Nana has a funky interior, with exposed brick and a giant tank filled with koi in the front window. We scored a table in the back garden, which was packed.

Nana’s menu had both sushi and Thai options on the menu. I generally will only eat sushi at eateries that exclusively serve Japanese food, and besides, Matt and I had eaten at the very excellent Taro Sushi the night before, so sushi was off the table. I decided to go for the tofu teriyaki, and Matt opted for the Malaysian curry beef, and we wanted to share the steamed vegetable dumplings to start.

The first sign that something had gone awry was when a few minutes after ordering, a different waiter from the one who took our order presented us with a plate filled with logs of fried tofu that resembled rectangular mozzarella sticks. “Tofu Tod,” he said, which apparently was the name of this dish. I told him that we hadn’t ordered fried tofu.

A few minutes later the vegetable dumplings arrived. The texture of the dumplings was gluey, and the filling didn’t have a remarkable flavor. I noticed the waiter who had brought us the fried tofu logs walking around the inside of the restaurant still holding the plate, looking confused.

Next Matt’s beef arrived. The waiter who took our order returned, and asked me, “Didn’t you order the Tofu Tod?” No, I replied, affirming that I had ordered the tofu teriyaki. “Oh,” he said, scurrying back into the kitchen. At that point I realized that it would be a few minutes before my tofu teriyaki materalized. Matt meanwhile dug into his beef, which he called “low grade, slimy” and later declared that “it was the worst meal that he had eaten in a little while.” While I didn’t get to experience the Grade D-like beef myself, I tried a string bean, and wasn’t a fan of the sauce at all.

Finally, my tofu teriyaki appeared. Sitting on a bed of bok choy and broccoli and other vegetables was… the same fried tofu logs I had sent away because I hadn’t ordered them. (I only wish I had photographed this as evidence.) I’m about 99 percent certain that the tofu in the dish wasn’t supposed to be deep fried, but rather, lightly-sauteed, and the restaurant tried to pass off the rejected dish on me. I wasn’t really in the mood for mozzarella-stick like tofu in my dinner, so I ate the vegetables and sent back all back one of the tofu logs. (I had to try one. Indeed it was golden-fried and greasy, but mostly flavorless.) Matt and I had decided not to send back our meals, but we didn’t tip. Ahem.

There are tons of great restaurants in Park Slope, especially around 5th Ave. While we have yet to find our favorite Thai restaurant since moving to the neighborhood, we won’t be going back to Nana.

  • Nana, 155 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, 718-230-3479/8
Jul
24th
Fri
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Guest review: 'Wichcraft

My friend Kyle was kind enough to report back on his findings after eating lunch at ‘Wichcraft (of the Craft family brought to you by Top Chef’s Tom Colicchio). I ate lunch at ‘Wichcraft eons ago, but I’m happy to hear that it’s still a good midtown lunch option. ‘Wichcraft recently opened for dinner, fyi. Take it away, Kyle!

Lunch in Midtown Manhattan is a feast of plenty … plenty of mediocre that is.

Working stiffs who slalom tourists dailly to forage are met with remarkably similar fare at almost all turns — as if a giant old textile plant in Newark was churning out sandwiches and box sushi for two out of three spots amid the lights of Times Square. (Actually, that’s probably not far from the truth).

I was looking for some of that uninspired sushi today, when I stumbled upon the cheekily named ‘Wichcraft and its marinated white anchovy sandwich.

Good soft bread with a hard crust. A layer of plump anchovies. A pile of frisee. Some pickled onions. And a gooey soft-cooked egg that bound the whole mess together like a generous drizzle of Elmer’s.

It should be noted that ‘Wichcraft is not a little boutique. In fact, there’s one in Vegas. And at $9.70, the white anchovy a little bit dear. But such is the price of being different.

Jul
5th
Sun
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Coffee Crunch Bars
I wanted to make something sweet for Ely’s barbecue, and had had my eye on the recipe for Coffee Crunch bars ever since they appeared in February’s Bon Appetit. Then I read a little about the Coffee Crunch Bar Controversy over at the Bitten Word. Apparently the recipe was contributed by Molly Wizenberg (of the great blog Orangette), but the Bon Appetit editors modified the original recipe to reduce the baking temperature and increase the cooking time. The results, the Bitten Word guys (and Epicurious commenters) found, were burnt and hockey puck-ish.
I followed Molly’s original recipe (thanks to the Bitten Word for posting it), and I’m glad I did. At first,  I was expecting something like a blondie, but because there aren’t any eggs in the recipe, the bars were crispy and without any give. As the bars cooled, they grew on me. The coffee, almond and chocolate flavors melded into a nice mocha treat. Kind of like the Jamoca Almond Fudge ice cream my dad used to get when he took us to Baskin Robbins when we were kids. The bars went fast at the party, and I’ll be making them again. Maybe I’ll experiment with eggs to make the bars more cake-like. Or maybe not. I, as the Bon Appetit editors learned, probably should not mess with a good thing.
(p.s. Excuse the blurry photo… real camera is all out of batteries, and can’t find the battery charger. It’s in a box somewhere.)

Coffee Crunch Bars

I wanted to make something sweet for Ely’s barbecue, and had had my eye on the recipe for Coffee Crunch bars ever since they appeared in February’s Bon Appetit. Then I read a little about the Coffee Crunch Bar Controversy over at the Bitten Word. Apparently the recipe was contributed by Molly Wizenberg (of the great blog Orangette), but the Bon Appetit editors modified the original recipe to reduce the baking temperature and increase the cooking time. The results, the Bitten Word guys (and Epicurious commenters) found, were burnt and hockey puck-ish.

I followed Molly’s original recipe (thanks to the Bitten Word for posting it), and I’m glad I did. At first,  I was expecting something like a blondie, but because there aren’t any eggs in the recipe, the bars were crispy and without any give. As the bars cooled, they grew on me. The coffee, almond and chocolate flavors melded into a nice mocha treat. Kind of like the Jamoca Almond Fudge ice cream my dad used to get when he took us to Baskin Robbins when we were kids. The bars went fast at the party, and I’ll be making them again. Maybe I’ll experiment with eggs to make the bars more cake-like. Or maybe not. I, as the Bon Appetit editors learned, probably should not mess with a good thing.

(p.s. Excuse the blurry photo… real camera is all out of batteries, and can’t find the battery charger. It’s in a box somewhere.)

Jul
4th
Sat
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Happy 4th!

Howdy readers. I haven’t posted in awhile due to massive life events, which include taking Level I of the Cerftified Financial Analysts exam, then moving from Manhattan back to Brooklyn (Prospect Heights!), then starting a new job in which I work 10+ hours a day. During this long 4th of July weekend I’m finally starting to feel a little settled. Mostly because the aroma of coffee crunch bars are wafting from the kitchen that I’m making for Ely’s barbecue. More on that later tonight….

Jun
1st
Mon
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Crab cake sandwich from Tidewater Grille in Havre de Grace, Md. I was in town yesterday for my cousin Robyn’s baby shower with Heather and her mom. Tidewater Grille’s crab cakes weren’t as good as my Baltimore-native dad’s, but when in Maryland, you eat crab.

Crab cake sandwich from Tidewater Grille in Havre de Grace, Md. I was in town yesterday for my cousin Robyn’s baby shower with Heather and her mom. Tidewater Grille’s crab cakes weren’t as good as my Baltimore-native dad’s, but when in Maryland, you eat crab.

May
27th
Wed
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There were no Memorial Day barbecues for me this year. I was stuck inside studying for an exam. But there’s nothing better than distracting myself from converting forward rates into spot rates and discounting cash flows than cooking. I decided to make a pizza, albeit one with lots of shortcuts. I started out by caramelizing an onion. I thinly sliced a vidalia and threw it in a hot pan with some olive oil, salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar.

There were no Memorial Day barbecues for me this year. I was stuck inside studying for an exam. But there’s nothing better than distracting myself from converting forward rates into spot rates and discounting cash flows than cooking. I decided to make a pizza, albeit one with lots of shortcuts. I started out by caramelizing an onion. I thinly sliced a vidalia and threw it in a hot pan with some olive oil, salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar.

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Next I rolled out the dough. I was at Matt’s apartment, where I don’t have any of my cooking equipment, so I had to improvise. I also cheated by buying frozen dough at the store. I had wanted to try making Jim Lahey’s (of Sullivan Street Bakery and Co.) no-knead dough (here’s the recipe), but I realized belatedly that I would’ve needed 12-24 hours to start it. Oh well.

Next I rolled out the dough. I was at Matt’s apartment, where I don’t have any of my cooking equipment, so I had to improvise. I also cheated by buying frozen dough at the store. I had wanted to try making Jim Lahey’s (of Sullivan Street Bakery and Co.) no-knead dough (here’s the recipe), but I realized belatedly that I would’ve needed 12-24 hours to start it. Oh well.

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Et voila, the finished product. All in all not bad, and super easy. Matt seemed to like it and asked why we don’t have caramelized onions with every meal.

Et voila, the finished product. All in all not bad, and super easy. Matt seemed to like it and asked why we don’t have caramelized onions with every meal.

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The pizza before going into the oven. The pie was light on sauce because there was barely half a cup of tomato sauce remaining in a jar that had been in the fridge for almost forever. Pizza, I realized, is an awesome fridge- and cupboard-cleaning meal. I also sliced up a spare red pepper. I threw the pie into a 450-degree oven for about 15 minutes.

The pizza before going into the oven. The pie was light on sauce because there was barely half a cup of tomato sauce remaining in a jar that had been in the fridge for almost forever. Pizza, I realized, is an awesome fridge- and cupboard-cleaning meal. I also sliced up a spare red pepper. I threw the pie into a 450-degree oven for about 15 minutes.

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Here are the finished onions. When the onions started sticking to the bottom of the pan, I deglazed it with some balsamic vinegar, which added to their sweetness.

Here are the finished onions. When the onions started sticking to the bottom of the pan, I deglazed it with some balsamic vinegar, which added to their sweetness.